I find it somewhat
bizarre that a golf course names itself after the code name for a D Day
landing beach that saw the death of over 2000 American soldiers on the 6th
June 1944. In some respect the course does attempt to pay homage to the
people who ensured our freedom by naming each hole after a famous general or brigadier
and having a large billboard outlining who they were and what they did during
the war effort.
It is difficult to
conceive how horrendous the battle must have been for the land that is now
covered by two golf courses enveloping a 4 star hotel however if you venture
a few miles east you come across the American Memorial to those brave
soldiers which poignantly has white crosses symmetrically laid out as far as
the eye can see.
With a six week
sojourn in France and Northern Spain I intended to play as many courses as I
could without interfering too much in our holiday schedule and with the full
blessing of Mrs Wormburner I was looking forward to it.
As stated, Omaha
Beach Golf has 2 courses, each with 18 holes but with different
landscapes. La Mer-Par 72 overlooking
the sea and Port en Bessin fishing village and Le Manoir -Par 71 situated inland.
On this day I chose
to play La Mer and with the use of Google maps I intended to turn up on spec
and hope that a tee time would be readily available. A word of warning however, Google Maps doesn’t
always get it right and can cause issues. It is therefore important to keep
an eye open for signposts indicating the entrance to the course or you may,
as I did, find yourself at the crossroads between the 4th and 5th
hole with no idea where to go next! A little bit of back tracking however
enabled me to find my way to the car park and walk through to the Mercure 4
star complex. The first thing that
greets your eyes is the club house/restaurant with its large terrace
overlooking the La Mer 9th green and the largest practice putting
green I have ever seen.
At
80 euros a round, this place isn’t cheap and with the £ being at an all-time
low against the euro it’s an expensive do. Bloody Brexit! Undoubtedly Mercure
provide inclusive offers for the serious golfer or society but as a loner
living out of a caravan I didn’t think they would have an offer for the likes
of me.
Entering reception,
a young lady greets you from behind a large counter and enquires as to which
course you would like to play, where you currently play and what your
handicap is? This is the first time I have ever been asked about my handicap
and I had to provide evidence. Thankfully my local course keeps all this
information on the “How Did I Do” app and it was fairly easy for me to
access.
Limited language
and lots of money exchanged I walked up to the starter hut to the right of
the putting area only to find it empty. I came to realise later that the
starter hut is controlled remotely and when it is your time to tee off your
name comes up on the electronic board. Not realising this however, I chose to
continue on to what I hoped was the correct first tee and thankfully had it
confirmed by a golfer walking off the 9th green.
The 1st a dog leg left, par 5 SI 9, at 492 m is
named after General Eisenhower who was the American Supreme Commander of the
Allied Expeditionary Force in Europe and later president of the good old US
of A between 1953 and 1961. Having only ever played once outside the UK,
approaching the tee presents you with your first problem. Instead of the
regular yellow (Jaune), red (Rouge) and white (Blanc) tee markers there is
also black (Noir) and blue (Bleu). Not quite sure which one to go for I opted
for my usual yellow in the hope that it was the right thing to do.
Hitting off the tee
to the right-hand side clearly made the hole more difficult for me as I found
myself much further from the pin than I should have been. Regardless I
obviously soldiered on, lonely as a cloud!
The 3rd
Par 4 SI 8 at 307 m is a cracking hole. Hitting off an elevated tee to a
massively sloping right to left fairway and a second shot to the green that
sees your feet well above the ball can test you, big style. Having navigated
that successfully, the 4th SI 7 at 248 m presents you with a pond
in front of the tee and a sloping uphill green protected by bunkers. Again, I
was happy with my score here and then following the 4 ball in front of me I
crossed the road that I was lost on earlier. A long hill rise walk takes you
up to a plateau which supports the next four holes. Having lost a ball at the
5th the four ball kindly let me through and as often happens on
occasions like this I blew my chance to regally pass through as I began to
scuff my fairway shots.

Regardless, at the
374 m par 4 6th SI 3 I recovered my composure and although
extremely flat it is peppered with sand bunkers that resemble bomb craters. As
you walk this fairway the flags of the UK, France and USA are visible on the
promontory and walking off the green there is a German pill box on the bluff with
a memorial telling the story of how the British Commandos took the hill on
D-Day after much personal sacrifice. Golf immediately takes second place as
you take in the enormity of the sacrifices these people made to enable us to
do what we do today. The view of the sea and Port en Bessin are exquisite and
you have to force yourself to move on to the next hole. The par 3 8th
SI 15 at 155m is another taxing hole. Again, striking from a highly elevated
tee box anything left of the green rolls down a significant hill and anything
to the right meets deep grass and trees.
Taking the path
across the second road of seven on this course, the par 4 9th at
272 m SI 13, is another uphill climb to a highly elevated green. Here I was
joined by a young headphone clad Frenchman who was clearly taking a shortcut
home. As he spoke to me, I had to interject and with my detailed knowledge of
the French language I rapidly fired off, “Je ne comprends pas, parlez vous
Anglais?” At which point he said, “a little” and I finished off this deep and
meaningful conversation with “tres bien”. For whatever reason he must have
assumed this meant I wanted him to stop and watch me play and for the second
time today I shanked my second and third shots, at which point he moved on.
As he walked away, I am sure I heard
the word “merde” being muttered but surely he wasn’t talking about me!
The first nine
holes then are mainly positioned along cliff tops and therefore the fairways
and greens suffer accordingly from the ravages of the Atlantic. On the day I
played, it was a cloudless sky with a temperature of 30 degrees, the fairways
underfoot were crisp and crunchy and the greens were well manicured. A wet
and windy day would undoubtedly bring severe difficulties
The back 9 takes
you into a different environment altogether as parkland abounds and the
fairways become much more lush. The par 5 11th SI 2 at 434 m has
an out of bounds running along the right hand side and a long line of one
story hotel accommodation running down the left. From the tee I sadly found
the out of bounds and when I went to retrieve my ball, I discovered that the
adjacent field of bullocks was divided from the fairway by an electric fence.
Not wanting to electrocute myself and/or disturb these huge beasts I took a 4
iron in hand and lay flat to the ground, I then leopard crawled under the fence
until I could reach my ball and flick it back into the playing area. Well, we
all know these things aren’t cheap!
The par 4 12th
and 17th run along two more sides of the building and provide sun
bathers with a great view of the golfing combatants but they would have to be
wary of any wayward shots. The back nine are quality holes but the most
memorable is the combination of the par 4 14th at 292 m SI 12, the
par 3 15th at 132 m SI 17 and the par 4 16th SI 1 at
368 m. These 3 holes with out of bounds down their right-hand sides and
undulating, hollowed out fairways on the last two are quite taxing for the
average/below average player.
Throughout a game
of golf you may become frustrated and angered about how well you are playing
but this pales into insignificance when at every tee box you are reminded of
the people and the sacrifice they made to enable you to be able play this
course.
The information
boards continually remind you and enhance your understanding
of who was involved during those horrific days of World War 2.
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