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WET AND
WOOLLY
Using
my teenage granddaughters as sat-nav it was always going to be difficult to
check out this course and all that it had to offer, but regardless of their
inability to differentiate between left and right I ploughed on regardless in
the battered family Astra.
As you
may well know from a previous blog (Rowany Golf Club: For Every Up There Is A
Down), visiting family in the Isle Of man allows me the opportunity to try
out the courses on offer and having read that Castletown had recently been
rated in the top 100 golf courses in the UK, this was a must.
The
first right turn into the course (or was it left) off Castletown Promenade
brings you to a large grey metallic shed containing buggies galore and mowers
of every description. A short walk
round the yard and a brief discussion with a heavily clad individual
indicated this was NOT the entrance to the golf course, it was however the
green keepers shed!
The
next right however takes you along a single-track road with the large curving
Derbyhaven Bay to your left and the signature 5th to your right.
At the end of the track a low bricked entrance curves up to the golf club,
which is overshadowed by a large disused Bauhaus/Post-Modernist built hotel.
It
appears this eyesore was closed in 2011 when the golf course was bought by a
local billionaire who had a yearning to bring the course back up to the
standard of yesteryear when it occupied a top 100 UK placing annually. The
sale did not however include the hotel and therefore the carbuncle continues
to look down on the small but relatively well-formed golf club and
independent restaurant. In 2017 dreams of demolishing the monstrosity and
creating a brand-new luxury hotel and apartment complex sadly came to nothing,
it therefore continues to dominate the skyline.
Parking
up on the curve because the big 4 x 4 selfishly blocked off the rest of the
road, a short walk takes you directly into the Pro shop. A warm welcome from
the guys behind the counter makes you feel right at home. Discussion re round
price, golf hire, weather conditions and tee time allow you to make the right
choice for your next visit, that is, if you have time to spare before you
move off the rock and back to mainland Britain. Which I obviously didn’t!
The
course itself lies in a truly stunning location, situated on the Langness
Peninsula and bordered by the Irish Sea on three sides, it is truly open to
the elements. Coming directly back off Storms Ciara and Dennis, which caused
major flooding and damage in the UK it was surprising to find a course that
was still open with limited restrictions.
The conversation
with the guys indicated that the course was relatively flat and therefore
anything coming in off the sea was going to hit you hard. As it is so highly
rated by many golfing providers, I had to go for it the following day,
regardless of the bound to be inclement weather.
Wrapped
up to the nines and with a newly acquired £4 flat cap from Port Erin’s Age
Concern, I was ready for the off. Dutifully dumped by the daughter at the
allotted time, as the family went off for brunch, I went off to fight the
elements and what a majestic tussle it was.
£35 for
a winter round, £25 for club hire (quality Srixon I may add) and an
additional £25 for the thinsulate Castletown Golf Links Bobble Hat because I
had a feeling my flat cap wouldn’t see the round out, made for a relatively
costly do. I am however slowly coming around to the fact that when it comes
to golf courses, you pay for what you get. Asking about a course guide,
before departing to the first winter tee, I was pleasantly surprised to be
provided with one, although slightly dated, free of charge.
The
above costs are slightly more than those charged by Old Tom Morris of St Andrew’s fame who just a few years
before setting out Castletown in 1892 confirmed to a potential client , “My
fee for laying out a green is £1 per day and travelling expenses.”
Walking
to the 1st tee, par 4 SI 17 at 239 yards I glanced at the Local
Rules on the scorecard and my eye was drawn to Rule 1 which stuck out like a
saw thumb. It states in bold red capitals, THE USE
OF DIVOT ANCHORS AND SAND BAGS (PROVIDED ON THE 1st TEE) AND PITCHMARK
REPAIRERS ARE COMPULSORY. So, what is a divot anchor when it is at
home? A quick scout of the internet reveals the anchor is a biodegradable pin
that secures the grass top back into the divot hollow allowing the fairway to
repair more rapidly. I’d like to say I followed rule 1 to the letter however
I was keen to be off and wanted to finish before the worst of the weather
hit.
The 1st
and 2nd, the latter being par 4 SI 5 at 364 yards, let you settle
into the course with gently rising fairways and hospitable bunker placings.
Initially this would not have mattered as a number of bunkers were GUR
(ground under repair).
The 3rd,
the first of three par 5s SI 15 at 468 yards is also easily navigable at this
time of year, however the entrance to the green is very narrow and
significantly protected by four strategically placed pot bunkers.
The dog
leg left 4th SI 9 at 335 yards is a narrow drive over gorse to an
expanding fairway and if short of the middle your second to the green cuts
across more gorse. Sadly, I came unstuck here and said goodbye to the first
of three balls I had acquired for £1 from my milliners the previous day!
Surprisingly
the signature 5th SI 1 par 4 at 397 yards held no difficulties for
me but I was reminded at the end of the game that I had been playing off the
forward tees, Nonetheless an accurate
tee shot aimed towards the rising embankment rolled nicely into the
middle of the fairway and the second comfortably carried the front bunker.
Situated
snugly between the 3rd and 5th green is a 2nd
world war pill box that doubles as much needed protection from the elements
and after only five holes I needed it. The wind and rain were relentless.
Inside the murky concrete dwelling the pillars have signs to remind you of
the expectations on the course. No caddie cars on the green and the request
that three or four balls give way to singles or foursomes. Neither of which
were going to be a problem today. After a short break and reconnaissance of
the course through the letter box loopholes, I moved on regardless.
As you
approach the 6th green, the smell of bladderwrack wafting off the
rocks leaves you in no uncertain terms that you are playing on a peninsula
jutting deep into the Irish sea. This natural area of outstanding beauty is
also renowned for its bird life. None of which I saw today, apart from a lone
partridge hunkering down on the fifth in the hope it wouldn’t get blown out
to sea.
By the
time you hit the inland apex of the isthmus (holes 7, 8 and 9) the wind is
driving, unlike my tee shots. Hitting into a full force gale, with the rain
stinging your face, really shows your true metal. It also gives you the
prefect opportunity to observe swaying planes arriving at the nearby Ronaldsway
Airport. I’d like to think that keeping my drive low reduced my margin of
error however when the ball is buffeted on the peg and the driver head is
wobbling in your grip, like an experienced airline pilot, you just do the
best you can.
It
isn’t until the par 5 12th SI 16 at 461 yards that I turned away
from the wind and was provided with an excellent opportunity to birdie, that
is until I three putted! A welcoming relief indeed but before I knew it I had
turned back into the teeth of the gale.
The 13th
par 3 SI 18 at 116 yards, whether I liked it or not, gave me the opportunity
to try out a pot bunker. Concrete steps in, hint at the depth from which you
need to extricate yourself and after three goes, I was despondent but not
beaten.

Hiding
behind a masonry wall at the 15th, SI 4 par 4 at 352 yards I took
respite from the elements and was able to adjust my sodden attire. Glancing
over my very wet wets, it was interesting to note that my continuous movement
had forced the wash powder from the depths of the fibres and I glistened from
head to toe in miniscule silver bubbles. In addition, the waterproof shoes
were leaking, the bobble hat thinsulated no more and the cold was beginning
to reach my core. At this point I became somewhat disorientated and couldn’t
quite understand why I had to drive back across the 14th green. Unable
to see the pin, as throughout the round all the flags had been tied down, I nevertheless
hit a pearler into the wide expanse of fairway. As I walked towards the ball,
I glanced down at my golf watch only to notice the distance to the hole was
increasing! In an instance it dawned upon me, I had hit the ball in the
opposite direction to that required. What a dick! A ball is a ball however
and I continued in the wrong direction until I retrieved said ball and turned
back into the driving rain.
Walking
along the bluff edge between the 16th green and the 17th
tee I noticed a rambler’s gate signposted “SHEEP” which made me consider
whether the Isle of Man had similar animals to that of the Orkney Islands. A
location where strangely sheep eat seaweed! Could our woolly chums have got
confused during the storms and travelled from North Ronaldsay to Ronaldsway?
Maybe not but your mind does wander when its dropping below core body temperature,
after all it is easy to become befuddled!
As you come
to the end of the round the 17th and 18th holes are a complete
joy. Not because you are soon to be out of the unsavoury conditions but
because of their magnificence. The views are unique.
The 17th
SI 10 par 4 at 385 yards sees you drive across a ravine that is encroached by
the sea. It is truly stunning and considered to be one of the best links holes
to play in the UK. Thankfully my drive, wind assisted, flew like a Little
Tern migrating to Europe for winter and landed comfortably on the fairway,
unlike the passengers of the Flybe flight BE813 that appeared to come down
with a considerable bump.
As I approached
the final hole of my worthy combatant I was wet beyond words and the course
guide was of little use as it resembled a soggy napkin. The tee box had a
weatherproofed sign pinned to the floor indicating that works were taking
place along the 18th fairway and one had to be aware of the
greenkeepers in situ.
The par 4 SI 6 at 354 yards was also a tad confusing as
it appeared to have two routes into the green. Unknown to me, the first was a
blind second over another gully and the second a more benign shot from a dog
leg right. As you approach the green it becomes evident however that this gully
exists for a large sign states the following: “ WARNING!
Rock climbing is DANGEROUS the ground is unstable. Walking & playing golf
in this location is at your own risk.” Glancing down the ravine
one can only assume that anybody who ignores this warning is beyond mad!
At the
18th the greenkeepers work consisted of a large embankment being
laid along the length of the derelict hotel and whether this is to improve
the run in or just to hide the blot on the landscape, it was difficult to
tell.
Overall
then, in the most difficult of circumstances I have ever come across, this
was a great round of golf. Would it be different in summer? Perhaps, on a
sublime day, but I expect that based on its geographical position these days
are few and far between.
Below
the overhang of the external club house /restaurant steps and not knowing
where the locker room was, I decided to divest myself of the very wet, wet,
wets. As I removed the over trousers I resembled what can only be described
as an unstable Flamingo, as I hopped around on one leg and at which point the
junior assistant and head green keeper came out of the shop door and in a
strong Celtic Brogue the latter said, “You deserve a medal” and promptly
walked off. Indeed, I did deserve a medal but at this point in the
proceedings a hot drink would suffice.
The Green
Bay Restaurant is run independently of the golf club, but it is honour bound
to support club events and provides decent fare for the passing walker, the
lunching lady or the genial golfer. It also provided me with a much-needed
pea and ham soup which went down very well as I sat on the comfy leather sofa
in front of the warming wood burner.
Joining
me for a brief chat was Andi Howland who I believe to be the
manager/administrator for the club. I had met him in the shop the day prior
and Andi provided me with chapter and verse as to the improvements made since
the new head greenkeeper arrived. It appears Andy McIntee came from Royal Troon
and with his wealth of experience has set about a three-year improvement plan
for the course, which has clearly allowed the owners vision back in 2011 to
become a reality. The glossy brochures dotted throughout the club house are
also testament to the work that has been undertaken by him and his team.
As I
venture round Man on my golfing sojourn, I do feel that the island should
promote itself as much more than just a circuit for fast bikes and crashes. Due
to its relative size and number of courses in close proximity golfing
holidays here should be a must.
In summary
then, Castletown Golf Links is a memorable course, with the friendliest bunch
of people you would ever wish to meet, but oh boy, the weather! It certainly
left its mark on me and I on it, for as I got up to leave I glanced back one
last time and noted a rather large damp patch on the leather sofa that I had
just vacated. Oh well!
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